Wines of the Month
Tu Bois Quoi?
This month we travel the length of eastern and southern France — from the clay-limestone slopes of Beaune to the glacial schist terraces of Savoie, and south to the garrigue-scented warmth of the Rhône. Nine bottles. Three landscapes. One throughline: producers who let the land do the talking.
Burgundy & Beaujolais — The three wines span styles nicely: David Croix's Beaune Rouge is the elegant, cellar-friendly Pinot; Bachelet's Bourgogne Chardonnay is an overachiever for its appellation; and the Domaine Valma Fleurie is the wild card — a tiny, hail-ravaged 2024 vintage that makes its scarcity part of the story.
Savoie — The Ardoisières pair is a great conversation starter. Both are biodynamic, from heroically steep schist slopes, and made from obscure indigenous grapes (Jacquère, Persan, Mondeuse). The fact that they're from the same domaine and vintage makes them natural side-by-sides.
Rhône — The Clos du Mont-Olivet trio tells a progression: entry-level (Côtes-du-Rhône VV) → mid-tier (Lirac 2019, now drinking well) → flagship (Châteauneuf 2023, a standout vintage the family rates among their best of the decade). Ogier's Viognier anchors the whites with Northern Rhône elegance.
