GAJA Conteisa Barolo DOP 2014

GAJA Conteisa Barolo delivers power and structure, a majestic addition for collectors looking for a classic experience. Garnet red colour. Persistent and expressive bouquet of rose petals, violets and red berries. The dry and full-bodied palate is incredibly elegant, finding a remarkable balance with polished tannins and a bright acidity. Sweet red cherry jam, currant and raspberry flavours lead into layers of licorice, cocoa, thyme and anise spices. Ripe fruit wrapped in spices, its refined character reflects the essence of Cerequio. 

92% Nebbiolo and 8% Barbera. The fruit for this wine comes from a contended vineyard that has one of the highest altitudes in the Barolo zone. It has a southwest exposure and is one of the first to flower in the spring, yet one of the last to be harvested, resulting in longer hang time and exceptional ripeness. The vineyard is only one of two GAJA vineyards in the Barolo district – Sperss is the other.

In 1995, GAJA purchased its second vineyard in the Barolo appellation, this time in La Morra. Nearly all of the property’s vineyards lie in the famed Cerequio cru, which is widely recognised as one of the best growing sites on the west side of the Barolo-Alba road. The location of the cru, along the border between La Morra and Barolo (to the south), and its prized fruit made it one of the most coveted and “contended” in the appellation, with both townships vying for greater surface area under their control. For this reason, GAJA decided to call the wine Conteisa, Piedmontese dialect for the Italian contesa, meaning the contended vineyard. The first vintage was bottled in 1996.

Hand-picking of the fruit with expert care. Separate fermentation with skins in stainless steel tanks at controlled temperatures for 2 weeks. Blending and racking of the wines at the end of malolactic fermentation in semi-new barriques, where they age for 13 months. The wine then undergoes further ageing in large barrels for a further 12 months.

Ageing potential: Drink now or cellar until 2035.

AWARDS & ACCOLADES

The nose opens with a startling play between white truffles, bark and tea leaves and then crushed violets, lavender, blueberry peel, lemon rind and sour cherries. Full body, ultra-fine tannins, acidity as sharp as a razor and a long, ethereally mineral finish. The length but sheer clarity and accuracy in the delivery is remarkable. Perhaps hard to believe that this better than the 2013, but it is. Drink in 2022.

- 95 POINTS

 The 2014 Barolo Conteisa is an impressive wine that defies the odds of the vintage. Although the Cerequio vineyard did not suffer hail in 2014 (it did in 2016), grape production was reduced by half anyway. The remaining grapes delivered their best with intense flavors and crisp contours. Gaja tells me that the clusters harvested were perfect in appearance. This is a perfumed wine that offers defined aromas of wild cherry that rise to the top with intensity. The wine's tonality is dark and thick, and the tannins are full and structured.

 - 95 POINTS

 Aromas of underbrush, dark berry, new leather and a whiff of camphor waft out of the glass. The tense chiseled palate evokes Marasca cherry, raspberry, star anise and a hint of cinnamon alongside polished fine-grained tannins and vibrant acidity. Drink 2022–2032. 

  - 93 POINTS

 Though young and still a bit rough around the edges, this is harmonious, featuring cherry, berry, herb and tar aromas and flavors. The finish is long and vibrant, with earth and mineral elements. Best from 2021 through 2035.